luxury jewellery exhibition GemGeneve
Following on from the three previous exhibitions at GemGenève (Fabulous Carl Fabergé, Micromosaics through the ages and Automatons and Music) GemGenève’s organisers are keen to promote jewellery heritage alongside all the related Métiers d’art, offering institutions, firms and discerning collectors a more prominent place as part of the exhibition’s cultural programme.

For its seventh edition, GemGenève is inaugurating a poetic exhibition entitled The Pearl Odyssey. Bringing together more than forty jewels and outstanding pieces, the exhibition once again bears witness to the tradeshow’s commitment to promoting jewellery arts. Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, the Alfardan Collection, a private collector and a number of partner exhibitors – Faerber- Collection, Heritage Gems, Horovitz & Totah, Joseph Gad, Nicolas Torroni, Ocean Flame, Swiss Pearls and SSEF, and others have joined forces for this unprecedented undertaking, agreeing to display some of their most beautiful items.

In addition to this major exhibition, schools, craftsmen, experts, authors, historians, inuencers, curators, Heritage managers from leading rms and creative artists will also be in attendance, creating an inspiring community of true jewellery and gemmology enthusiasts. Featherworking, AI, contemporary challenges, historic fakes, social media, jewels of the 1940s, snakes… all these topics and more are being covered by GemGenève’s cultural programme, illustrating the huge diversity and stature of the event’s contributing partners.

A space dedicated to Métiers d’art devised in partnership with the Romandy Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI) and partner schools Geneva Vocational Training Centre for Arts & Crafts (CFP Arts Genève) and École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ) will be hosting a programme of demonstrations of expertise by enamellers, chain-makers, sheath-makers, inlayers, laceworkers, glassmiths, and specialists in 3-D metal printing.

GemGenève’s high-quality cultural programme provides a platform for all stakeholders in the world of jewellery.

Cultural programme developed by Mathieu Dekeukelaire.

Cultural Programme – GemGeneve November 2023

Donna Jewel X GemGeneve Project

Be the change

Movement means courage, growth, and change towards new horizons. It generates union and implies consequences: it’s said that “the flapping of a butterfly’s wings generates a hurricane on the other side of the world”; every little action is a step towards a revolution and the improvement of the world we live in. That’s why movement is the theme of Donna Jewel’s creative project in collaboration with GemGenève for November 2023. Students are called upon to create a kinetic jewel: a jewel in motion that embodies the change they want to make – and be – in the world.

Project Description

The “Donna Jewel x GemGenève” project arose from a desire to give voice to creativity, culture and self- expression through the art of jewellery. The goldsmith’s art thus becomes a language of freedom and universal innovation. Under the Creative Direction of Laura Inghirami, students from the “High Technician for the Production of High Quality Made in Italy goldsmith products – ITS class II” of the Galdus School of Milan (academic year 2023/24) celebrate the excellence of “Made in Italy” in GemGenève; they represent the future of Italian art. The exhibition is curated by Laura Inghirami, Donna Jewel, and GemGenève.

GemGeneve X Métiers D’Art

Developed in partnership with the Romandy Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI) and partner schools Geneva Vocational Training Centre for Arts & Crafts (CFP Arts Genève) and École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ).

Métiers d’art preserve a tradition that stretches back for millennia. These artisans are creative magicians, transforming raw materials into works of art, their talent transcending the generations to preserve unique knowhow. Sadly, some of the skills in question are known only to their practitioners, while others are in danger of being lost altogether due to a lack of training courses.

With this dedicated Métiers d’Art Space, GemGenève is seeking to highlight all the professions within the world of jewellery, many of which are little-known, in the hope that doing so will lead to new vocations among the younger generation.

Guest artisans and students studying jewellery crafts from the two partner schools will be presenting their expertise in the exhibition’s Métiers d’Art space through demonstrations and informal discussions with visitors and exhibitors.

Enamellers, lapidarists, pearl-threaders, gold lace-makers, chain-makers, inlayers, laceworkers, glassmiths, and specialists in 3-D modelling will be taking turns in talking about their craft and sharing their passion.

Confirmed crafts:

  • Enameller: Matteo Stauffacher

The art of grand feu enamel consists in applying layers of coloured enamel powder on a surface which is then heated – in several firings – to temperatures of over 800°C, causing it to melt and create a smooth coating featuring a particular design. The technique is used in high jewellery and on watch dials.

  • Chain-maker: Laurent Jolliet

Chain-makers make chains entirely by hand. The process may take from one to two months depending on the type of chain in question. The chain-maker works with gold, silver or platinum thread, coils and links that are then painstakingly assembled. Worn on a daily basis, a watch strap produced using this technique can last for up to 30 years.

  • Inlayer: Rose Saneuil

Rose Saneuil has devised her own technique in the craft: multi-material inlaying, for which she has now lodged a patent application. Multi-material inlaying involves creating beautiful items such as intricate cases, watch dials, and jewellery using materials ranging from sycamore to lacewood, walnut burl, bone, straw, mother-of-pearl, leather, amaranth, zinc, shagreen, parchment, scarab elytra, Corian, brass, gold leaf, eggshells and more – combined in harmony.

  • Gold lace-maker Sara Bran

Gold lace-making is a new, innovative craft that builds on the basic jewellery and jewelsmithing practice of using a fretsaw for handmade openwork, adding a further technical dimension. The craft calls for the laceworker’s keen eye, mind and hand – and all the knowhow of a jeweller familiar with techniques such as forging, welding, assembly, surface treatments and finishings. Gold lace-making is extremely fine work, sometimes even more so than lacework, but has to be strong – and for jewellery pieces, also has to correspond to the item’s desired shape and relief.

  • Lapidarist: Fiona Maron

The art of lapidary consists in cutting or re-polishing a rough or partly cut stone to show it off at its very best. It is mainly used on stones destined for jewellery and watchmaking, although lapidarists are sometimes asked to work on ornamental stones, too. Another aspect of the craft involves engraving, particularly for signet rings and intaglios. The bulk of the work involves working afresh on stones that have been worn and so suffered from impacts, restoring them to their original splendour. Sometimes a jewel-setter may accidentally chip the stone during the setting process. In such cases, the lapidarist does the tiniest amount of work possible to allow the stone to be put back in the item in question.

  • Glassmith: Béatrice Binétruy

Glassmiths specialise in the creation and restoration of stained glass. Techniques including cutting, assembly and the colouring of pieces of glass enable glassmiths to create works of art and other decorative items.

  • 3-D modelling: Clémentine Schmid:

o     Three workshop topics:

Workshop 1 – 3-D Modelling basics: Learn about the fundamentals of 3-D modelling with our workshop dedicated to essential tools. Explore the creation of shapes and how to make them on the basis of sketches; the use of Boolean logic to merge and subtract shapes; deformation techniques, various forms of duplication and more. Take a deep dive into the fascinating world of 3-D modelling and develop the basic skills needed to bring your creative projects to life!

Workshop 2 – Freeform Creative Modelling: this presentation explores the world of freeform modelling. Discover all the basic tools you need to produce freeform shapes! Understand how freeform shapes are used alongside traditional 3-D modelling to create untrammelled, innovative designs. Delve into this creative method and find out about all it has to offer!

Workshop 3 – 3-D Modelling for Jewellery: Attend this workshop for a demonstration of the specific 3-D tools used in jewelsmithing to determine finger size, create precious stones, set and unset jewels, and create settings and claws. Immerse yourself in the world of jewelsmithing as you explore these specialised tools in a professional 3-D environment. Join us for an enlightening demonstration allowing you to discover these key skills.

  • Pearl-threading workshop: Sabine Gyger

Pearl-threading involves carefully threading a series of pearls on a thread in accordance with a specific pattern or design. For over 30 years now, Sabine Gyger has been threading pearls without adhesive – a traditional method that is sadly no longer used, or only very rarely so.

  • Art of covering: Vaudaux Genève

Founded in 1908 and based in Geneva, Vaudaux is a Swiss firm specialising in the design and manufacture of presentation cases, accessories and high-quality fine leather goods for luxury brands.


Since 1987 the Romandy Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI) has brought together jewellery and jewelsmithing artisans and companies alongside all other industry professionals. Its aim is to promote and represent these professions, as well as helping its members create synergies together and uphold the values of the trade. Over and above all this, it seeks to provide dual training in jewellery / jewelsmithing and jewel-setting, maintain the standards of these trainings, and ensure future generations can perpetuate the association’s international reputation for excellence.

To extend the scope of its activities and responsibilities, ASMEBI partners with VSGU, its counterpart for German-speaking Switzerland, to form OrTrA, the umbrella organisation for the jewellery and object design professions, responsible for dual training in Switzerland and full- time schools.

Having the professional association and schools in the same location at GemGenève is a way of strengthening ties and fostering interaction and support between professionals, trainers, students and apprentices. Collaboration with GemGenève is an excellent opportunity to raise the organisations’ profile, promoting and upholding their expertise as well as giving space to those still learning their craft, enabling them to familiarise themselves with the professional world they are set to join.

Confirmed crafts:

  • Jewel-setters: Ugo Mighali; Alice Nicolet; Mehdi Belharet & Lenny Coppel The craft of jewel-setter has existed ever since humans began making jewels.

During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the trade of goldsmith covered three specialisations: goldsmiths themselves, jewelsmiths and jewel-setters. These three became trades in their own right in the 1800s and 1900s. The art of jewel-setting consists in placing precious sones in jewels and watches using a range of techniques with varying degrees of difficulty, depending on the shape of the stones and the complexity of the item in question. Synergies and partnerships between jewel-setters, jewellers and jewelsmiths, watchmakers, lapidaries and diamond cutters are vital to the success of any project. The craft has changed considerably over the past forty years amid ever-increasing industrialisation. Jewel-setting workshops have split into two categories: some have followed industry, with quite large workshops working mostly for the watchmaking industry, while other small and medium-sized firms work mostly for jewellers and jewelsmiths. Working methods have also changed with the advent of binocular microscopes and mechanical and computer programs specifically designed for jewel-setting. As well as an artistic, creative side, the craft calls for good self-control and patience on the part of its practitioners.

  • Engraver: Richard Lundin

Engraving is a handicraft for the most part, one that is closely interlinked with luxury watchmaking. Engraving involves creating a design on a surface by removing material. It covers all artistic, artisanal and industrial techniques that use cutting or hollowing out to produce an image, text, or any other form of inscription in a material. Engravers decorate items entrusted to them using gravers, and work on almost all types of metal. The two main techniques used are intaglio engraving (counter-relief) and low relief (relief engraving). The practice may also apply to other fields such as cameo engraving and stamping, as well as engraving to produce art prints.

  • CFP ARTS Genève / École Technique de la Vallée de Joux :

With a long tradition in Switzerland that is constantly evolving, training for the craft of jeweller/jewelsmith is being presented at GemGenève with the help of students from the Geneva Vocational Training Centre for Arts & Crafts (CPF Arts Genève) and École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ).

Often hidden away in discreet workshops, the work of the jewelsmith will be on show in an attractive setting to promote young students’ knowhow. They will be engaging in two classic techniques on site: metalwork and wax sculpture.

GemGenève X Transmission – Talks And Panel Discussions

Snakes in jewellery: precious and sinuous symbols

By Gislain Aucremanne, Heritage Curator Director, Bulgari

A symbol of rebirth and transformation, the snake motif has crossed civilizations and legends of all eras. Since time immemorial, this creature has fascinated the human imagination with its ability to renew itself by changing its skin, remaining in contact with the earth and at the same time rising from it, sinuously wrapping itself into a coil and overcoming predators. It is therefore not surprising that the snake has become one of the most often-depicted animals in jewellery history. From the noble jewels of Antiquity to the ambiguous reptiles of the Victorian era, from the protective talismans made by so many world cultures to the famous jewellery icon from Maison Bulgari in Rome, the snake tells us its precious story.

  • Grand Entretien: Gabrielle de Montmorin x Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO, Chaumet

Jean-Marc Mansvelt, who took the helm at Chaumet in 2014, is busy extending the global reach of the Paris-based jewellers. An extensive communication campaign has been embarked on to cover the history of the Maison, which dates back to 1780.

The fact is that Chaumet has one of the largest heritage collections in the world: 66,000 designs (the oldest of which date back to the early nineteenth century) 716 nickel silver pieces (including 515 diadems), 60,000 negatives, including 33,000 plates and 300,000 photographic prints, as well as 117 visitors’ books, 434 accounting and inventory books from Paris, London and New York, plus books on stones, pearls, and workshop handbooks – not forgetting 20,000 items of correspondence between the firm’s senior officers. Today, the Chaumet collection comprises over 350 items from the worlds of jewellery, watchmaking and goldsmithing. Some of them will feature in the exhibition on pearls being held at GemGenève.

In recent years, the firm’s high jewellery collections have received universal acclaim for the beauty of their designs and the high levels of skill with which they have been crafted. Jean-Marc Mansvelt will be telling us how he devises themes together with the design studio and what he sees as being Chaumet’s style codes. He will also talk about the high jewellery workshop that has never moved from 12, place Vendôme in Paris where the firm set up in 1907 – and which has recently doubled its headcount.

The CEO will also expand on his strategy for small jewellery items with best-selling lines and the firm’s international development, looking at where it sits in a jewellery market that according to recent surveys, is expected to be worth $500 billion in sales in 2025.

  • Buying an antique jewel – panel discussion hosted by Gemmologie & Francophonie Moderator: Chloé Picard & Martial Bonnet, on behalf of the French-speaking gemmology association

Buying an antique jewel often means buying a piece of history – and sometimes a fragment of History itself.

The concept of ‘antique’ often brings with it connotations of sentimental, historic and financial value, even though the materials used are sometimes less precious than those used today. Another specific concept to be borne in mind is that of provenance and the search for provenance. How is a jewel documented, and where do you go to find information? What should be said – or disclosed – about an item’s history? Should some items never be sold?

Another consideration is preservation: can an antique jewel be restored, and should it? Can it be over- restored? Should the same rules apply as in the art market, with its ‘30% principle’?


Chloé Picard & Martial Bonnet (moderators)

Marie Chabrol, gemmologist, teaching manager (HEJ) Pierre Naquin, editor-in-chief, AMA magazine

Céline-Rose David, gemmologist, historian and expert consultant for auction houses

  • My favourite Jewel of the 1940s at GemGenève by Amanda Triossi (moderator)

This conversation will provide a unique opportunity for GemGenève exhibitors to share their most favourite jewel from the 1940s with the audience and explain the reasons behind their personal choice. What will become apparent is how each great jewel is accompanied by a great expert with an exceptional eye. Amanda Triossi will help unravel the stories that have established the reputation of such great experts – probably the most hidden gems at GemGenève.


Moderator: Amanda Triossi Dominik Biehler, Ernst Färber Lindsey Miller, Provockative

Celeste Wu, Designer (Emerging Talent)

  • Feathers and jewellery: the enchantment of colour.

The emotion of colour unites the art of featherwork and jewellery.

Jacques Cuisin, Nelly Saunier, Stéphanie Sivrière and Jean Bernard Forot explore the register of colour in the world of ornithology, the art of featherwork and its importance in jewellery design.

In the first part, Jaques Cuisin will relate the influence and function of colour in bird plumage, from seduction to pageantry. Master of Art Nelly Saunier will then reveal her passion for feathers, her art of sublimating them, and how she plays with their colour in her artistic creations. Finally, Stéphanie Sivrière will explain how she draws inspiration from colour to marry feathers with gemstones and create unique, one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces. Enjoy this ongoing dialogue between nature and culture, creation and artistic interpretation, feathers and gems, a sensitive collaboration for Art-A-Porter.


Jean-Bernard Forot: Piaget Heritage Manager (moderator)

Jacques Cuisin: Delegate for conservation/restoration at the Paris Natural History Museum.

Nelly Saunier: Featherworker, French Ministry of Culture Maître d’Art winner in 2008, winner of the Bettencourt Intelligence of the Hand Award in 2009, made Officier des Arts et des Lettres in 2020.

Stéphanie Sivrière: Piaget Creative Director

  • Pearls of Truth: A conversation about pearl history, meaning and testing since antiquity

By Laurent Cartier, Pearl expert, expert in Pearls for the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) laboratory, Violaine Bigot, Heritage Officer, Chaumet and jewellery historian Kathia Pinckernelle.

This conversation will delve into the rich history of pearls, tracing their allure and significance back to antiquity. From ancient civilizations to modern-day luxury, the discussion will unveil the timeless fascination with pearls and the enduring appeal of imitating and cultivating them. Discover how pearls have been treasured by cultures across the globe for their symbolism, beauty and rarity, and how they have graced the necks of royalty, symbolizing power, purity, and prestige. Through an engaging dialogue, the conversation will also provide insights into the techniques and methods used throughout history to test and authenticate these exquisite treasures, shedding light on the art and science of pearl identification.

Whether you’re a gem enthusiast, a history buff, or simply curious about the mystique of pearls, this panel discussion will offer a captivating journey through time, unveiling the hidden secrets behind these lustrous gems and the quest to imitate them over time. Dive into the world of pearls with this thought- provoking dialogue and gain a deeper appreciation for the allure and mystery of these natural treasures that have enchanted generations of people worldwide.

  • The Young and the Goldsmith’s Art panel discussion, followed by the Donna Jewel x GemGenève project awards ceremony, in collaboration with the Galdus School.

Laura Inghirami, opinion leader and Founder Donna Jewel, are organising “The young and the goldsmith’s art” panel discussion in collaboration with GemGenève. Laura will be interviewing young students and alumni of professional schools in the jewellery goldsmithing sector about their passion and experience as professionals, and the challenges and opportunities that young people face today when approaching the world of work. Students will talk about their studies and dreams for the future of the sector, while alumni will share real-life testimony about their post-study experience, showing attendees that a course of study to become a specialized professional in the goldsmith’s art offers many job opportunities and plenty of fulfilment. The aim is to give voice to young people and inspire those who wish to embark on this path.


Laura Inghirami (moderator)

Lucas Hage (CFP Arts Geneva alumnus) Tess Sikias (CFP Arts Geneva student)

Lucie De Boer (ETVJ École Technique de la Vallée de Joux alumna) Blue Arnold (ETVJ École Technique de la Vallée de Joux student) Sofia Mantegazza (Galdus alumna)

Maria Vittoria Villa (Galdus student)

How AI is disrupting the analysis of precious stones: limits and opportunities.

There’s been talk of little else other than Artificial Intelligence for some months now. There can be no doubt that AI is on the verge of bringing far-reaching change to our processes, making them faster and more autonomous. What are the risks and opportunities of this innovations for the market in precious stones?

This panel discussion seeks to understand the basic workings of AI using a number of examples of its implementation in various industries before turning to look at precious stones in particular.

Both the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) and Gübelin laboratories have set up processes based on machine learning and AI to further refine analysis of precious stones. Their representatives will review the opportunities opened up by this new method of analysis – and its limits.


Andrea Machalova, deputy editor-in-chief – Bilan; manager, Bilan Luxe (moderator) Laurent Cartier, head of special initiatives, SSEF and co-founder, Sustainable Pearls Daniel Nyfeler, director, Gübelin Gem Lab

Laura Tocmacov, founder, ImpactIA Foundation, a specialist in AI-related ethical issues

  • Pearls: Challenges and New Creative Scenarios

Since ancient times, pearls have been the perfect companion for extraordinary jewellery creations and amid ups and downs, have played a major role in the international jewellery universe.

Today, pearls are back with a new creative flair – but also face significant challenges related to their farming and concerns about water ecosystems.

The panel discussion will focus on the environmental challenges whilst also offering keen insights into trends in fashion and jewellery and discussing how a new creative perspective can address issues of sustainability.

Join the conversation with us:

Donatella Zappieri, jewellery business consultant (moderator) Melanie Georgacopoulos, jewellery designer

Milena Lazazzera, journalist and historian

Laurent Cartier, head of special initiatives, SSEF & co-founder, Sustainable Pearls.

  • The future of jewellery marketing using social media

This panel, comprising well-known digital creators, will look at how social media marketing will likely evolve in the global jewellery and gemstone industry, encompassing Instagram, TikTok and other channels. What new channels are emerging? Does Threads have a big future in jewellery marketing? How will AI impact marketing communications? How can data be used to measure impact? What types of data will matter most? What is the outlook for hashtags?


David Brough, founder and creative director of @Jewellery Outlook (moderator) Laura Inghirami, founder and creative director of @DonnaJewel

Renu Choudhary, founder and creative director of @TheDiamondTalk Bebe Bakhshi, founder and creative director of @ChampagneGem Katerina Perez, founder and creative director of @Katerina Perez

  • WORKING SESSION in partnership with Gemmologie & Francophonie

Creating a basis for content in a jeweller/vendor guide and customer information. Categories, best practices, facts & fairytales. What does sustainability mean in the world of jewellery?

At every GemGenève edition since November 2021, Gemmologie & Francophonie has organised a panel discussion bringing together gemmologists and other experts to discuss current topics such as Gemmology and social, environmental and scientific challenges; Colour in gemmology: Nature and culture; and Science meets trade: what gemstones’ names tell us about ourselves. To maintain this dynamic and leverage the influence of GemGenève for the benefit of the jewellery world at large, the Association is working in partnership with the exhibition to launch this work session – more are planned at subsequent editions.

Limited to 15-20 people and organised on an opt-in basis (registration required), Gemmologie & Francophonie invites professionals, dealers, gemmologists, historians, leading jewellery brands and students to come and brainstorm, explore ideas and identify practical solutions to market challenges and difficulties; in short, to sit down round a table to discuss, debate, and see fresh ideas emerge.

Notes taken at these closed-door sessions will be published by the Association in its new review GEMMES, published every six months.

The working session will be organised on Saturday 4 November at GemGenève and will consider the following topic:

Creating a basis for content in a jeweller/vendor guide and customer information. Categories, best practices, facts & fairytales.

What constitutes best practice when selling a jewel or other stone to a customer? How should customers’ questions about treatment, provenance, and extraction conditions be dealt with? The fact is that in Europe, increasing numbers of customers are asking questions in these kinds of area. What answers should they be given and most importantly, how can the realities of a swiftly-changing sector be explained in simple terms?

The session will be led by the French-speaking gemmology association Gemmologie & Francophonie and be held in French:

For more details, please contact

Gemgeneve X Literature

  • L’Esprit Chaumet by Gabrielle de Montmorin

L’Esprit Chaumet (‘The Chaumet Spirit’) invites readers on an unprecedented journey through the annals of the Parisian high jewellery firm by presenting a selection of its most representative pieces, its aesthetic approach and its multifaceted history stretching back over 240 years.

It offers a rare opportunity to go behind the scenes of a prestigious high jewellery firm and admire its unique pieces, many of which have never been seen in public before. Organised into twelve themed chapters (a nod to the Maison’s historic address at 12 Place Vendôme), the book explores the key aspects of Chaumet’s identity and creativity, from its Paris roots to its cosmopolitan clientele, from its sources of inspiration to its iconic diadems via its inventiveness, its captivating use of colour, its playful spirit, its pieces inspired by nature, and more besides.

With over 450 illustrations, L’Esprit Chaumet is henceforth a key work of reference for one of the big names in French knowhow and luxury jewellery.

  • Minéralogie Enchantée, 40 histoires de pierres (Enchanted Mineralogy – 40 stories of stones) by Patricia Desmortiers, illustrated by Lola-Muna Lugand

There are fine works of science dealing with stones and fine works dealing with jewels, too, all with fine photos, but until now no book has combined the scientific and technical viewpoints in a technical-cum- literary approach. The surprise generated by a stone is first and foremost the fruit of an encounter and emotion that needs scientists to explain it – and craft specialists such as lapidaries, jewellers and jewelsmiths to embody it. This book seeks to preserve all the enchantment of discovery whilst revealing its secrets. To rise to this challenge, the book opts for illustrations rather than photos, a natural choice here: the drawings support and highlight the twofold approach combining passion and scientific rigour.

  • Yewn – Contemporary Art Jewels and the Silk Road, by Juliet-Weir de La Rochefoucauld

Dickson Yewn is the quintessential modern-day literatus. His contemporary jewellery is a crystallisation of thousands of years of Chinese material history. Square rings rub shoulders with antique porcelain forms, shapes taken from Ming furniture and the geometric latticework found in Chinese architecture. Yewn focuses on these traditional Chinese motifs, but also understands the significance of different materials. Wood, one of the five elements in Chinese philosophy, is present in most of his collections.

To wear a contemporary jewel by Dickson Yewn is to delve back into China’s works of art and its history, blended with a contemporary twist. This new monograph of his work details the inspiration Yewn has drawn from the Imperial court, exploring its influence on the art of jewellery, from silks, embroidery, painting, architecture and cloisonné enamel to courtesan culture. Beautiful, detailed illustrations and photographs highlight Yewn’s fealty to the artisanal techniques employed by the Imperial courts. Esteemed jewellery writer Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld invites the reader to explore the deeper symbolism behind Yewn’s jewels.

  • Lydia Courteille – A Jeweller’s Odyssey, by Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld

For more than 40 years, Parisian jeweller Lydia Courteille has been confounding Place Vendome jewellery houses with her bold and brazen designs. Her unique and avant-garde style is legendary; her collections spark the senses. In this impassioned new biography, Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld takes us on a voyage around the world, sharing the stunning locations and famous women from whom Courteille draws inspiration.

In the disposable world of 21st century consumerism, amidst the monotony of marketing algorithms and ceaseless production lines, Lydia Courteille has blazed her own creative trail, refusing to let the individuality of her work slip from her fingers. Her jewels crystalise memories, honour the dead, make powerful social statements, poke fun at modern absurdities, and transport us to the other side of the planet. Guided by an acclaimed author and jewellery expert, this colourful monograph renders her odysseys of creation and discovery in stunning visual detail.

  • NAHMA: A GULF POLYPHONY, by Flee Project

The pearls of the Gulf have fired the imagination and desire of people worldwide for centuries, their magnificence matched only by the courage of the divers who found them. This project aims to honour the memory of these valiant free divers, their culture and their music by means of a musical compilation featuring previously unreleased, original recordings of pearl divers and inspired modern-day compositions by vanguard musicians. Together with this record, an extended book in Arabic and English is available featuring contributions from regional experts and artists to contextualise the tremendously rich theme of pearling and its music.

  • GEMMO PURSUIT, by Asso’Mur (based on an idea by Marie Chabrol)

Gemmo Pursuit is a quiz game covering the world of precious stones.

The game was originally created by two gemmology teachers as a fun way for their students to revise. After two years of use by gemmology students, there is now a properly published version that everyone can own!

Gemmo Pursuit is based around questions about precious stones divided into six categories:

Chemistry | Crystallography and Mineralogy | History

Physical Gemmology | Geography and Gemmology | Gemmological Nomenclature

Some of the questions are quite specialised; the game will appeal to connoisseurs and those with at least some knowledge of conventional gemmology.

About GemGenève

GemGenève represents a unique hub where jewellery designers, dealers in precious stones, retailers, collectors, connoisseurs and buyers both professional and private can all gather under the same roof. Over the course of four days, GemGenève offers an opportunity to acquire exceptional pieces and to be inspired by a community of specialists in the field of gemmology and jewellery. It is a laboratory of creativity and innovation, bringing together recognised designers and emerging talents; a world of design, of rare gems, of antique and contemporary jewellery. Created by exhibitors, GemGenève offers a platform for expression and exchange that encompasses passion, expertise and education.

GemGenève – 7th edition

2-5 November 2023


10 a.m. – 6.30 p.m.

Palexpo Hall 6 | Geneva | Switzerland

For more information, please visit