GemGenève Returns to Palexpo for a Border-Crossing Edition

BORDER(S)
Crossing borders – the DNA of our 9th edition

Border(s) was the closing word at the previous edition of GemGenève as director Mathieu Dekeukelaire announced the theme for the gouache contest in 2025. On this back of this invitation to tomorrow’s talents to devise a piece of jewellery exploring this ambivalent concept, a few months’ further thought led the organisers to decide to support the emerging generation of creative artists further by also making Border(s) the overall guiding thread of the show’s ninth edition.
Since 2018, GemGenève has been juggling with borders of all kinds – from India to the USA via Brazil, Armenia, Japan, China and Ukraine, welcoming participants from all over the world.

Bringing together people keen to share and pass on their knowhow, expertise and love for jewels and rare gemstones, GemGenève is an inclusive event where industry players and professionals rub shoulders with private collectors and amateurs alongside foundations and cultural institutions. In breaking down barriers between different parts of the world of jewellery, GemGenève is also breaking down borders.
Connecting nationalities, cultures and generations, the concept of the ninth edition is that of building bridges between the different worlds within jewellery : artisanal and industrial output, tradition and innovation, art and design, culture and training. Border-crossing has become a key part of GemGenève’s DNA over the first eight editions as the event has built up its identity as a commercial, cultural, artistic, scientific and educational forum.

GEMGENÈVE 2025 : KEY FIGURES

The 8th edition of GemGenève last May welcomed 3,566 visitors, up 10% on the 7th edition. Transforming Palexpo into nothing short of a temple devoted to jewellery for over four days, this previous edition of the show brought together 244 dealers, traders, artists and craftsmen and women from every continent. Exhibitors and visitors represented 75 nationalities in all, positioning GemGenève as a leading international meeting-place that’s at once exclusive and inclusive.

BEYOND BORDERS

GEMGENÈVE x DIGITAL JEWELRY WEEK

Making the virtual real

Designed to nurture creativity and inclusion within the jewellery industry, the Digital Jewelry Week (DJW) founded by Dario Rjelli is an innovative event devoted exclusively to emerging and established artists under 30, allowing them to showcase their work internationally free from financial and logistics considerations. DJW is a digital event, spanning borders and bringing together an international community; the second edition in October 2024 revealed several highly promising designers and jewellers.
GemGenève is supporting this daring initiative by offering these rising stars in jewellery their first in-person exhibition. The show will be hosting some of the most remarkable and remarked-on works first unveiled at the second edition of DJW. The aim of the partnership is to support the emerging scene by helping to break down the barriers typically faced by younger artists.

GEMGENÈVE x JEWELLERY & GEMSTONE ASSOCIATION OF AFRICA

A look at African creative output

JGAA is the leading African organisation representing jewelsmiths, artists, professionals working with precious stones and gemmologists. The goal of this innovative initiative is to support the jewellery industry whilst encouraging sustainable economic development models. The nonprofit also promotes training, developing teaching programmes focusing on jewellery design and manufacture, gemmology and cutting precious stones.

ART DECO TAKES PRIDE OF PLACE FOR THE 9th EDITION

AN ALL-NEW TEMPORARY EXHIBITION

The 1925 style

This year, as a tribute to the one hundredth anniversary of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts held in Paris, GemGenève will be devoting a special exhibition to an unparalleled artistic style : Art Deco.
Seen as one of the most creative periods in the history of twentieth-century jewellery, Art Deco is a style spanning multiple disciplines ranging from jewellery to architecture via furniture and interior design, pure art, and even fashion.

Arts & Jewellery

Curated by GemGenève Director Mathieu Dekeukelaire, the exhibition explores every facet of a movement encompassing every aspect of arts and crafts. Almost one hundred pieces will be on display : jewels, haute-couture garments, sculptures and furniture whose daring and modernity had a powerful influence on the jewellers of the previous century. Designed as a dialogue between jewellers, dress-makers, sculptors, stylists and artists, this journey back in time will be one of the highlights of the ninth edition.

The exhibition brings together a large number of jewels from a range of private and institutional collections. Several exhibitors have contributed to this inspiring undertaking, loaning some of their finest pieces for the occasion.
Project partners include exhibitors and institutions such as the Geneva Museum of Art and History, the International Museum of Horology (La Chaux-de-fonds), Chaumet, Ernst Färber, Faerber Collection, G. Torroni SA, Horovitz & Totah, Humphrey Butler Ltd, Morelle Davidson, N. Torroni, Paul Fisher Inc. and the heritage collection of Golay Fils and Stahl, to name but a few.

Convertible jewellery

If the Victorian and Edwardian eras were the golden age of convertible jewellery, these hybrid pieces also staged a remarkable comeback during the 1920s and 30s with the advent of the Art Deco style. A single convertible jewel can be worn in more than one way: lapel clips, originally worn on their own, can be grouped together to form a brooch; sautoirs can turn into bracelets or chokers; even diadems can become necklaces. This inventiveness gave birth to particularly sophisticated pieces.

MORELLE DAVIDSON
Jewels from the nineteenth century to the present day

Installed on Maddox Street in the exclusive Mayfair district since 2013, Morelle Davidson is the place to go in London for those in search of more sophisticated antique and vintage jewellery. Representing all the leading jewellers on Place Vendôme, Morelle Davidson also carries names like René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, Carlo Giuliano and Georges Lenfant. For the ninth edition of GemGenève, Morelle Davidson will be carefully selecting their finest jewels from the nineteenth century through to the present day. The London-based dealer also specialises in precious and coloured gemstones, and will be displaying highly noteworthy gems.

MELLEN INC.
Mythical jewels and gemstones

Founded in New York by Ben Mellen in 1951, the family firm has now been in business for three generations, building up a sound reputation in diamond trading through its involvement in the sales of some legendary gemstones – including the Indore Pears, the Tiffany Yellow Diamond and the Marcos Blue. While white and coloured diamonds and high-quality coloured gemstones are the firm’s speciality, Mellen Inc. also boasts state-of-the art expertise in Art Deco jewellery and will be presenting several remarkable pieces at the ninth edition of GemGenève.

AN EVENT FOR NEO-COLLECTORS AND CONNOISSEURS ALIKE
collecting art deco jewellery

Art Deco jewellery embodies the greatest outpouring of creativity in the history of jewelsmithing. It was in many ways “a period of social liberation for those wearing the jewels as well as a time of technological innovation”, explains Robert Leigh-Pemberton from London-based dealers Humphrey Butler Ltd, who will be taking part in the forthcoming edition of the exhibition. From 1910 onwards, the possibilities opened up by the use of platinum in design and manufacture and the corresponding fields of artistic exploration became virtually limitless.

THE APPEAL OF ART DECO JEWELLERY
Stéphane de Weck, Horovitz & Totah

Art fusion

It was a time when jewellery, architecture and furniture all seemed to be converging. Several artists allowed themselves to explore beyond their own disciplines and experiment in other fields. One such adventurer was jewelsmith Jacques Lacloche, who turned his attention from jewellery to furniture.

Is there more than one Art Deco style ?

One particularity of Art Deco is that it’s an exceptionally long period, stretching from 1910 to the late 1930s; in actual fact there were a number of influences in play during this time. Egyptomania was a major influence on Art Deco jewellery in the wake of the rediscovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922; Asia was to play a significant role, too. In other words, there are multiple Art Deco styles; it was a prolific and extremely rich period, and that goes a long way to explaining why one never tires of these jewels.

A style ‘made in France’ ?

Paris is of course the cradle of Art Deco; Parisian jewelsmiths produced a huge number of pieces during this period, but it shouldn’t be forgotten that Geneva played a significant role too. Many Swiss artists (including Geneva-based Jean Dunand, a multidisciplinary artist who has come to be seen as one of the leading figures in Art Deco) played their part in expanding the style’s influence further afield.

Avant-garde materials

Several materials are inextricably interwoven with the Art Deco style, including platinum and lacquer. First introduced to Europe by Japanese artists, the new technique of lacquering made major inroads into jewellery in the 1920s. Other unusual materials such as ebony from Africa also aroused the interest of jewellers during this period.

CHOOSING ART DECO JEWELLERY ?

1 Fall in love

The best route to acquiring a piece of jewellery is to fall in love with it. Bear in mind that jewels are made to be worn; they need to have a life of their own, so there definitely needs to be some chemistry involved. Wanting to try a piece on is already a good sign – perhaps the sign that it’s the one for you.

2 Check the condition of the stones

Jewellery that’s the best part of a century old will inevitably show signs of age. Some stones may not be intact; they may be cracked or have been replaced – not just the central stones but the decorative ones too. That said, some jewellery has come down through the years in remarkable shape, and it’s not unheard-of to discover pieces whose original stones are in excellent condition.

3 Set your tolerance threshold

Some jewellery may have undergone alterations or restoration during its lifetime. Restoration is sometimes necessary to help a piece stand the test of time, and shouldn’t be grounds for outright rejection; minor restoration work carried out by a reputable workshop is often quite acceptable. Be prepared to be indulgent with such pieces – after all, they may be as much as one hundred years old. Other items may have been altered; parts may have been removed from the main piece to create another jewel, for instance. This is where your own criteria come in.

HOROVITZ & TOTAH
Participating in GemGenève for the ninth time

Founded in 1990 by Eric Horovitz and Ronny Totah (one of the two co-founders of GemGenève), Horovitz & Totah has been present at the exhibition since the very first edition. A leading specialist in Kashmir sapphires and natural pearls, the family firm also has robust expertise in antique and vintage jewellery, and swears by one simple guiding principle: selling only pieces they love.

PAUL FISHER, INC.
Established 1850

Paul Fisher Inc. is an international reference in the world of jewellery. Founded in Vienna by Julius Fisher in 1850, the family firm originally specialised in the natural pearl trade and quickly expanded to Switzerland and London. The company started to deal in jewellery in 1920, and in 1945 the founder’s great-grandson Paul Fisher opened an office in New York; Paul Fisher Inc. soon became a go-to address. Paul Fisher having passed away in 2019 at the age of 92, the task of selecting the very finest jewels has now been taken up by the sixth generation: Paul Fisher’s daughter Marianne Fisher will be at the ninth edition of GemGenève with a selection of rare and unique pieces.

3 TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS ON HOW TO BUILD UP A VALUABLE COLLECTION

Robert Leigh-Pemberton, Humphrey Butler Ltd

1 Buy what you love

My first piece of advice is unwavering – indeed, it should be the advice of every dealer to their customers: buy what you love. If you buy something simply because somebody told you to, or only because you think it will be a good investment, you’ve already made a mistake.
However, if you acquire a jewel that you love, you’ll almost always feel a sense of having done the right thing.

2 Don’t be obsessed with names

Sometimes people get obsessed by a single name – Cartier. We need to remember that there were some 2,500 studios in action in Paris during the Art Deco period, all of them producing absolutely wonderful pieces. If you’re over-obsessed with a particular name, you’ll miss out on a great many jewels.

3 Rediscover smaller firms

Some pieces by ‘small’ firms such as Marchak, Janesich and many others are equally if not more remarkable than those from bigger names. What’s more, unsigned pieces from jewelsmiths like Renault, Levarbre and Picq are relatively affordable – and always marvellous. While I have to admit that France was home to the very best workshops, their manufacturing quality was almost always rather fragile compared to some other jewelsmiths who are as yet relatively little-known – and well worth rediscovering.

HUMPHREY BUTLER LTD
The place to go in London

Situated on the legendary Pall Mall, Humphrey Butler Ltd has been dealing in antique jewels and contemporary pieces for 25 years. Founded by Humphrey Butler, a specialist in items of prestigious and rare origin, the landmark London firm will be taking part in GemGenève for the seventh time. Antique jewel enthusiast Robert Leigh-Pemberton joined the firm seven years ago.

WHERE GEMMOLOGISTS AND LOVERS OF PRECIOUS STONES GATHER
learn about organic gemstones

What are organic stones ? The term refers to materials of non-mineral origin, classified as ‘fine gemstones’ with a range of different origins; they include amber, copal, mellite, coral and mother-of-pearl. Organic gemstones come from fossilised resin or the plant or animal kingdoms and generally have a Mohs hardness rating of between 2 and 4, calling for particular expertise and immense dexterity when they are used in jewellery.

In love with coral since 1894

Enzo Liverino

One of those taking part in the ninth edition of GemGenève running from May 8 to 11 2025 is Enzo Liverino, for whom coral is a family passion passed down since 1894. This representative of the fourth generation of Liverinos also chairs the Coral Commission of The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), one of the main missions of which is to raise awareness – and appreciation – of a gemstone that has a very special place in the hearts of all professionals.

A major comeback

Coral has been used in the world of jewellery since antiquity and is particularly sought-after today by leading jewellery houses, which have taken a renewed interest in its colour and its history. Highly appreciated in ancient Rome, it made a major comeback during the Art Deco period, fashioned into cabochons, carved, or engraved.

Red Gold & Angel Skin – two classic varieties

It’s important to note that five different species of coral are regularly used in jewellery: corallium rubrum, japonicum, elatius, secundum and konjoi. Originating from Japan and the Mediterranean, the stone boasts a broad chromatic palette ranging from pinkish white to shades of orange. Enzo Liverino deals in all types of precious coral, notably Mediterranean coral, “a species that is not protected, only monitored”. Sometimes known as ‘red gold’, this variety is formed at considerable depth, making it harder to harvest and as precious as it is rare. If people ask Enzo Liverino which is his favourite coral, he unhesitatingly replies “angel skin coral – a colour variation that shouldn’t exist at all”.

The coral market

As Enzo Liverino explains, the price of coral varies depending on demand, fashion and trends. The depth of colour, size and hardness index of a piece are all criteria to be taken into account in negotiations.

What you need to know before acquiring coral jewellery

Acclaimed as a ‘soft’ material on account of its relatively low hardness index, coral is in fact “very strong, and can last indefinitely,” says Enzo Liverino. That said, one counterintuitive fact about this jewel of the seas is that it is vulnerable to moisture and requires special care if it is to remain intact over long periods of time. The best advice the expert offers is to buy coral from a reputable dealer.

The Wonder of Sciacca Coral

Enzo Liverino has a book on Sciacca coral coming out soon. Highly prized for its distinctive colour, this type of red coral is mostly harvested off the coast of Sicily. In his new book entitled The Wonder of Sciacca Coral, the dealer tells many stories and offers his commentary on some of the most memorable pieces he has handled over the course of a career that’s spanned 54 years.

Talks and book-signings

The cultural programme for this ninth edition of GemGenève will be published a few weeks ahead of the event. Featuring talks, panel discussions and book-signings, the forthcoming edition will bring together a great many experts, gemmologists, scientists, historians, specialist authors and influencers, all sharing their expertise in a range of topics and challenges relevant to today’s jewellery industry.

GOLCONDA DIAMONDS

Capucine Juncker, Property of a Lady

Famous jewels like the Koh-I-Noor, Hope and Sancy diamonds were all found in the mines of Golconda, India. The mines themselves have achieved near-mythical status as a result, becoming a source of fascination and wonder for gemmologists, traders, jewellers and lovers of exceptional gems the world over. Despite this, they had somehow escaped having a book devoted especially to them. Jewellery expert and historian Capucine Juncker has now remedied that, having just published the first ever work to be devoted solely to Golconda diamonds.
In a unique and dazzling journey that starts in ancient India before moving to the royal courts of Europe and concluding with a magnificent overview of contemporary pieces, Capucine Juncker offers a captivating and in-depth study blending history, geography, gemmology and legend.
Capucine Juncker will be present at the ninth edition of GemGenève, where visitors will be able to attend one of her talks and meet her at the book-signing session for her book, Diamants de Golconde (Diamonds of Golconda), published last October by Éditions Skira.

NO STONE UNTURNED

Richa Goyal Sikri

Precious stone expert Richa Goyal Sikri has undertaken a four-year investigation into the supply chain for African gemstones. From the mine to the market, this enthralling book retraces the steps involved in trading these jewels, which have been highly sought-after for sixty years now. 24 narratives and “true stories” recount the adventures of dealers and other players in the precious gemstone trade. Offering a rare insight into the world of precious stones and the complex transaction schemes that govern the business, the book is the outcome of an investigation like no other. Richa Goyal Sikri will be presenting No Stone Unturned. The book’s sub-title (“The hunt for Africa’s precious stones”) invites readers to discover a new perspective on gem mining; a book-signing session with the author has already been scheduled.

SUCCUMBING TO THE TEMPTATION OF ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE JEWELLERY

why jewels of yesteryear are suddenly a thing again

INSIGHTS

From Ida Faerber and Nadège Totah, co-organisers of GemGenève

Do you dream of owning a piece of jewellery that’s uniquely different ? Between 8 and 11 May 2025, GemGenève will be back for its 9th edition, transforming Palexpo into nothing less than a temple devoted to jewellery. The event is eagerly awaited by collectors in search of rare jewels, and has now become a firm fixture in the Geneva calendar. Over the space of four days, lovers of iconic and atypical pieces will have a chance to enjoy an unforgettable experience : acquiring an item of jewellery laden with history and emotion.

GemGenève: the tradeshow for jewellery and precious stones

In 1998, the then CEO of Hermès Jean-Louis Dumas famously said that “luxury is that which you can repair”, a soundbite that turned out to be a harbinger of the growing importance of antique and vintage pieces in the world of luxury craftsmanship.
Ever since its first edition in 2018, GemGenève has been rewriting the luxury rulebook, propelling antique and vintage jewellery into the limelight with the strongly-held belief that in the twenty-first century, “luxury is that which you can pass on”, as GemGenève’s Director Mathieu Dekeukelaire puts it. In an age when the notions of sustainability and the circular economy are gaining ground in the world of luxury, the Geneva tradeshow is very much in step with the times in this respect.

New expressions such as “pre-loved” jewellery (referring to rare jewels and exceptional jewellery items that reappear on the market to be sold for the second time or more) have now become part of the lexicon of jewellery experts and professionals. “Some of these pieces were first sold years or perhaps centuries ago, but are still very much sought-after – in some cases even more so than when they were first made,” says Nadège Totah. Today, with the circular economy fast becoming a necessity, rings, necklaces, sautoirs, brooches, cuff bangles and other items that have already enjoyed a first life in which they were worn and loved are being snatched up once again.
Over and above the very special sense of emotion derived from a jewel steeped in history, the broader attraction of vintage jewellery resides in the fact that it encompasses every period, spanning pieces from just a few years ago right through to others that are several centuries old. Some items, made using now-forgotten techniques, are a real discovery in and of themselves. For Nadège Totah, the secondary market is all about passing on heritage: “like mysterious travellers, these jewels offer a new lease of life to jewellery knowhow, carrying it down through the ages.”

Secondary jewellery : the market and its trends

Since the turn of the millennium, the secondary jewellery market has seen exponential growth, not least because it offers buyers the opportunity to acquire highly exclusive jewellery items : unique pieces, special commissions and highly limited editions become available to buyers for whom they were not originally destined. On the secondary market, acquiring a jewel from the historic collection of a royal or imperial house is a real possibility.

Trends are now emerging on this market, with some designs beginning to be more sought-after than others depending on the period in question. “When I started out, everybody was chasing decorative bracelets and Art Deco was the thing,” recalls Ida Faerber. These days, the self-described treasure-hunter notes that the large Retro bracelets of the 1940s are very much in vogue, alongside timeless, classic designs that effortlessly appeal to all generations and that are handed down from one to the next, seemingly forever.
Today, the antique jewellery market spans the globe. Europe, with its historic jewellery culture, remains a very buoyant market, as does the USA where demand continues to rise; Asia has now embraced the new trend too. Looking at the current state of affairs, Ida Faerber’s perspective is that “the Chinese market may not have matured yet, but in Thailand, Indonesia and Singapore, the younger generations are strongly attracted to these pieces from a bygone age.”

Buying antique, vintage and pre-loved jewellery

As to the question of whether pre-loved jewellery can be seen as an investment, Ida Faerber’s view is that the appeal of a legacy piece lies as much in its history as in its value : “telling the story of an item and its provenance is an important part of my business. I don’t just talk about the sophistication of the design and the materials used, I also explain its meaning and relate its life story. I always tell people they should buy jewellery that they’ll like.”
A piece’s maker, condition, and workmanship are always criteria to bear in mind when purchasing vintage jewellery, but recognising and identifying a particular style or period is sometimes not so straightforward. What’s more, an unsigned piece may nonetheless bear the hallmark of a renowned jewelsmith, increasing its value tenfold – but of course that involves locating the hallmark and knowing what it means.
GemGenève is one of the rare shows that invites novice collectors to take their first steps in the history of jewellery and precious stones, inviting them to learn about styles and techniques. Thousands of jewels and jewellery items will be on display, making the event the perfect opportunity to educate one’s eye and discover the multiple facets of jewelsmithing. As well as talks where they can hear from specialists from all over the world, initiates can meet experts and professionals and enjoy the benefits of their passion – before embarking on their own quest for that very special piece.

CELEBRATING JEWELLERY ARTS

and meeting master craftsmen and women

Since its first edition in 2018, GemGenève’s commitment to passing on jewellery expertise has gone from strength to strength. One indication of the show’s commitment in this respect is the existence of a dedicated space for arts and crafts, an initiative that allows the public to discover the talents of those working behind the scenes in the world of jewellery.
Enamelling, chain-making, pearl threading, lapidary and jewel-setting are just some of the trades vital to the jewellery industry that will be proudly represented by a renowned craftsman or woman during the exhibition, setting up shop at Palexpo to offer visitors a glimpse of the inner workings of their studios. GemGenève aims to nurture vocations by being an event where younger generations and others can find out more about training opportunities in the industry – or embark on a meaningful career change.

ARTS AND CRAFTS SPACE

Insights into the work of Sara Bran

The delicate nature of lace-making involves constantly adapting patterns fashioned freehand with a sawblade. Calling for a steady, inspired hand and a dose of poetic muse, lacework adds a unique touch of artistry to finishings. Gold lacework is an especially fragile undertaking; the angle at which the gold leaf is cut has to be relentlessly adjusted to ensure that light strikes the tracery in just the right way.

For over twenty years now, Sara Bran has made gold lace-making her artistic language. In combining techniques borrowed from Haute Couture and traditional jewellery materials, she has developed a whole new gold and silver lace-making process. Voted “Rare Talent of the Year” by the Paris-based Luxury and Creative Arts Centre in 2015 and “Inventive Talent of the Year” in 2014, Sara Bran has taken part in a large number of projects and collaborations ever since being a finalist in the Liliane Bettencourt “Prize for the Intelligence of the Hand” in 2011. Working together with brands such as Piaget and Guerlain, she makes bespoke pieces for the big names in luxury; each of her creations requires at least six hundred hours of work.

Her sure and inspired hand has produced a host of sophisticated and delicate pieces. Taking care to incorporate the interplay of light into each pattern and decoration, this twenty-first-century goldsmith has developed a blend of expertise that is at once unique, innovative and outstanding, with a process characterised by a sense of detail, accuracy, patience and exacting standards.
Sara Bran is an advocate for a distinctive concept of French luxury, having developed her own special style by reinventing one of the fundamental techniques of jewelsmithing and high jewellery: cutting with a fretsaw, using an extremely thin blade to sculpture the material – and bring it to life.

MASTERPIECE

By Nelly Saunier

My muse is rooted in gentleness, lightness, delicacy and beauty; my works themselves are a mixture of raw and living materials, diversity and nuance, repurposing feathers, transcending techniques and offerin a fresh take on materials to achieve unexpected artistic effects.

In May 2024, GemGenève inaugurated Masterpiece, a space in which a monumental work by an artist working in a rare area of expertise is displayed. This coming May, visitors to the exhibition will be able to admire one of master featherworker Nelly Saunier’s most extravagant pieces.
Saunier is one of the rare artists to be perpetuating a craft that is all but lost today. After being admitted to the highly select circle of Maîtres d’Art master craftsmen and women in 2008, Nelly Saunier is now acclaimed as the greatest featherworker of our times.
For over thirty years, this colourist at heart has made her expertise available to the greatest names in luxury. Nelly Saunier first established her reputation in high fashion, having worked for seventeen years with Jean‑Paul Gaultier – with whom she co-created the legendary jacquard sweater for his 1998-1999 Autumn-Winter collection. In 2001, together with stylist Isabelle Marant she produced ‘Jeanne d’Arc’, a breastplate made of bright red feathers, before venturing into design alongside creative artist Olivier Gagnère, known as the ‘outlier designer’ to create Omega, a mirror surrounded by a deep purple plumage.

In 2012, Nelly Saunier brought featherworking to the collections of jewellers Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels, designing a series of dials decorated with multicoloured feathers in which painstaking precision went hand in hand with the infinitely small. In 2015, her skill as a colourist fired the imagination of Piaget’s artistic director Stéphanie Sivrière. Together, they came up with an innovative High Jewellery collection in which coloured gemstones and rare feathers interact and sublimate each other.

EMERGING TALENTS & NEW DESIGNERS

first revealed at GemGenève…

Ever since its first edition, GemGenève has sought to support the emergence of younger talents by giving them their own special space, the Designers’ Village, where young artists and emerging talents are invited to put their works on show every year. Over the years, GemGenève has become established as a key springboard for them, enabling more than one artist to really launch their career.

THE DESIGNERS’ VILLAGE

Nadège Totah’s keen eye

In May 2025, GemGenève co-organiser Nadège Totah will be introducing a dozen creative artists who are as yet ‘under the radar’. The names of these rising stars in the jewellery firmament will be unveiled just a few weeks before the exhibition opens.
In addition to raising the profile of young talents, GemGenève also offers practical experience that many describe as marking a turning-point in their careers.

A.WIN SIU
China

Chinese artist A.win Siu took part in GemGenève for the first time in May 2023. After being spotted by Nadège Totah, she travelled over 8,000km to present her iconic ‘Something Sweet’ jewellery in the New Designers space at GemGenève. It was A.win Siu’s first international exposure, enabling her to present her works for the first time in Europe – and also marking her official entry into the world of jewellery.

A few months later, the young artist confided that the experience also made her aware of where she wanted to go in artistic terms. Stimulated by her discussions with a range of ‘audiences’, the artist realised that her work was well-received, transcending cultural, linguistic and gender boundaries.
In May 2024, A.win Siu returned to unveil Something Worth Celebrating, a new collection directly inspired by her experiences with visitors and collectors at GemGenève the previous year.

During her second visit, the young artist was especially struck by an “unexpected surprise” : some visitors revealed that they’d travelled several thousand kilometres to meet her. This gave A.win Siu a real sense of recognition – it’s no surprise that she’ll be returning to GemGenève for its ninth edition.

SHAVARSH HAKOBIAN
Armenia

In November 2023, the exhibitors at GemGenève included the event’s first ever Armenian artist: jewelsmith Shavarsh Hakobian, who has been producing jewellery in Erevan, the capital of Armenia, since 2008. Making only unique pieces and highly limited editions, his jewels are designed to be unisex. The artist’s début at GemGenève proved to be a successful experience for him, and in May 2024 he returned to the show for the second time – having created a new collection especially for the occasion. He’ll be back once again in May 2025, marking the ideal opportunity to discover his output – if you haven’t fallen for one of his jewellery items already, that is.

STRONG & PRECIOUS
Ukraine

Olga Oleksenko founded the Strong & Precious Art Foundation in April 2022 after the outbreak of the ongoing conflict between Ukraine and Russia. Mindful that artists and other creatives are often among the first to be forgotten in times of war, Olga Oleksenko has committed herself to sustaining emerging artists and the Ukrainian jewellery scene. An expert in jewellery and an ambassador for Van Cleef & Arpels in Kyiv, Olga Oleksenko has brought together the most promising names in contemporary jewellery in this unusual collective. The fourth edition of GemGenève in May 2022 was the first time Strong & Precious had been invited to an internationally recognised exhibition. Since then, the collective has travelled across the Atlantic too, recently taking part in the NYC Jewelry Week. For its ninth edition, GemGenève will be devoting a new showcase to Strong & Precious, presenting the works of several jewelsmiths and designers.

About GemGenève

GemGenève is a unique hub where jewellery designers, dealers in precious stones, retailers, collectors, connoisseurs and buyers both professional and private can all gather under the same roof. Over the course of four days, GemGenève offers an opportunity to acquire exceptional pieces and be inspired by a community of specialists in the field of gemmology and jewellery. It’s a laboratory of creativity and innovation, bringing together recognised designers and emerging talents; a world of design, rare gems, and antique and contemporary jewellery. Created by exhibitors, GemGenève offers a platform for expression and exchange that encompasses passion, expertise and education.

For more information, please visit https://gemgeneve.com.